What Are Keshi Pearls?

The word “keshi” means “poppy seed” in Japanese.  The word is used to describe something tiny.   Originally, Japanese pearl farmers utilized this word to describe very small pearls, often less than 2 mm in size. These tiny pearls were discovered inside oysters that had been nucleated to produce cultured Akoya pearls. These small pearls appeared unexpectedly during the culturing process, a by-product of the Akoya oysters.  It was like an accident.  As a result, they were sometimes called “chance pearls”.   

Initially, Japanese pearl farmers were frustrated to find these small, irregular pearls instead of the perfectly round Akoya pearls they were striving to cultivate. Obviously, they preferred to get a nice round pearl.  Over time, however, people started appreciating the natural beauty and unique character of keshi pearls.  Many of these pearls are found in saltwater Akoya oysters. 

·   Why Keshi Pearls Are So Popular and Appealing

We know that, years ago, people were mainly looking for perfectly round pearls.  Actually, for many, the word "pearl" would usually evoke an image of a white, round orb.

 However, recently, keshi pearls have become very popular. Why?

First, we like them for their exceptional luster (and luster is one of the major factors determining a pearl's value). Many of the keshi pearls display the so-called iridescence or play of color. Iridescence enhances pearls’ natural charm and appeal.

Moreover, their shapes are organic – irregular, and, sometimes, even bizarre.  Perfectly round keshi pearls are scarce.  Actually, each keshi pearl is singular in its shape and, thus, unique. 

In addition, keshi pearls may have different, most beautiful and rare natural colors, including bronze and silvery, cream and golden, grey and purple...

And keshi pearls are pure, 100% nacre, as they do not contain a bead nucleus.  This means that keshi pearl will last for a very long time, provided you know how to take care of your beautiful pearl jewelry.

All these qualities of the keshi pearls make them extremely popular among pearl jewelry designers because the pearl shape and color may suggest an exceptional, fresh design.

How Keshi Pearls are Formed

What triggers a keshi pearl formation? There are several possible scenarios:

• During the culturing process, a nucleus may be rejected by the mollusk.  However, the mantle tissue inserted along with the nucleus remains in the mollusc. Nacre continues to be produced, covering the mantle tissue. Eventually, a pearl consisting of pure nacre, without a bead, is formed.
• Or, in some cases, a tiny piece of the implanted mantle tissue becomes detached. Then it forms its own pearl sac, which also starts producing pearl nacre. This happens alongside the nacre formed around the nucleus in the other pearl sac.

Regardless of the cause, the result is the same — a pearl composed entirely of nacre, full of luster and individuality, is formed.

First, Akoya keshi pearls were produced.  Then, South Sea and Tahitian keshi pearls appeared in the market – these keshi pearls are even more popular than Japanese because they are larger (starting from 8-10 mm).   Usually, these keshi pearls have a baroque shape. 

Actually, often, the pearl farmers intentionally create conditions for the creation of keshi pearls.

South Sea and Tahitian Keshi Pearls

In more recent decades, South Sea and Tahitian keshi pearls have become highly sought-after in the jewelry market. These pearls are much larger than Japanese keshi, typically ranging from 8–10 mm up to 20 mm. They are loved for their luminous sheen, rich iridescence, and fascinating baroque shapes. Jewelry designers enjoy working with them as they use their unique sculptural forms to create astounding contemporary pearl jewelry.

Cultured Freshwater Keshi Pearls

Lately, freshwater cultured keshi pearls have become very popular and abundant.  Jewelry designers as well as consumers like them for their amazing luster, beautiful colors, organic shapes, and uniqueness.

Nowadays, cultured freshwater pearls may be of two types: a by-product - they may grow in a mussel along with “normal” pearls. 

Another type of pearls that should be mentioned is the so-called reborn keshi pearls.  This is a relatively new type of freshwater cultured pearls that are marked by dramatic shape and wonderful lustre, and iridescence.  In the process of culturing freshwater pearls, after a pearl has grown and, finally, it is taken out of the pearl sac of a freshwater mollusc, the pearl sac continues secreting nacre.  And with the course of time, the nacre fills the space in the pearl sac.  Voila, in a couple of years, a reborn keshi pearl, often having a very weird shape, is formed.

Cultured Keshi Pearls – Are These Natural Pearls?

By the way, for years, gemologists have debated how to properly classify cultured freshwater keshi pearls. Since keshi pearls are formed accidentally, like natural pearls, they might be considered natural pearls. Some prefer to call them “keshi-type pearls.”

Some experts even claim that cultured keshi pearls, being 100% nacre and being formed accidentally, should be considered natural pearls.  Because these pearls are the result of an accident, like natural pearls.      

However, it is not as simple as this.

Originating during the culturing process, cultured freshwater keshi pearls should be correctly classified as cultured pearls.  And to avoid confusion, we will refer to them simply as cultured freshwater keshi pearls, always specifying their provenance.

And this should be understood and disclosed.  Again, the price will greatly differ depending on the provenance of the keshi pearls.

We, at Jewelry Olga, enjoy working with cultured freshwater keshi pearls as they are beautiful and unique.  And, today, people are looking for something uncommon and rare, particularly in fashion and jewelry.  This happens because people want to express their personal style and taste.

Check out our contemporary, unique pearl jewelry featuring gorgeous freshwater keshi pearls.